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Panama · Gunayala Comarca

Gunayala (San Blas
Islands).

Caribbean islands governed by the Guna people, reached by mountain road and boat.

See what to do (13)Destination map

Photo: Benjamín Gremler

Before you go,
understand the place.

Gunayala is a strip of coast and more than 365 islands, according to Visit Panamá, on Panama's eastern Caribbean. It is the collective territory of the Guna people. Authority lies with the Guna General Congress, which meets in May and October, together with the General Congress of Culture and each community's leaders (saglas). They set the fees, checkpoint and transport hours, and the rules for visitors.

Best time to go
Guides call December–April the dry season, with more sun and higher prices. In those months the northeast trade winds build more swell, especially January to March. A Guna operator says seas are rough from December to March and calmer from April to November, and does not recommend those months for children under 5 or pregnant women. A guide to the Colombia crossing says the opposite (less wind from December to April). Windy spells happen in any season. IMHPA warned of 1.2–2.6 m waves in December 2025 and up to 2.5 m in Gunayala in July 2026. The Congress suspended boat and tourism activity from 2 to 4 February 2026 because of high tides and wind. An IMHPA climatology specific to Gunayala was not confirmed by the official source at the time of review.
Getting there
By road: 4x4 from Panama City to Cartí, about 2.5 hours (Visit Panamá); the operator San Blas Dreams (July 2025) gives 2.5–3 hours and about 115 km. From the Pan-American Highway at El Llano you take the El Llano–Gardi road, 40 km through the mountains. Only 4x4s certified by the ATTT and the General Congress may use it; in May 2026 there were 131 accredited tourist vehicles. The private guide PlanPTY (updated September 2026) gives US$25–35 per person, round trip, in a shared 4x4; the official regular passenger fare Panama–Gardi was B/.15–20 in 2022. At the Nusagandi checkpoint (entry from 7:00 a.m., exit until 4:00 p.m. since May 2026), officials check your original passport with its entry stamp and you pay the fee in cash. At the Cartí ports you pay port use and board the boat. The official tourist round-trip fare per person is B/.20 to B/.75 depending on the island (December 2022). Boats leave from 6:00 a.m. and must arrive by 6:30 p.m. By air: Air Panama offers Gunayala only as a charter destination in 2026. A private site (sanblas-islands.com; a 2014 page, modified in 2022 according to its metadata) mentions daily flights to El Porvenir and other airstrips; scheduled flights not confirmed.

Four ways to explore

Themed guides

Places grouped by theme, to plan your day.

  • 4 places

    Islands for an overnight stay

    The islands belong to Guna families and communities, who run the cabins. Lodging is rustic, with electricity for a few hours a day and meals included.

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  • 4 places

    Snorkelling on reefs and wrecks

    Snorkelling only: scuba tanks are banned except for authorized research. Currents change quickly between islands.

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  • 3 places

    Guna communities and visiting rules

    Gunayala is governed by its own congresses. Ask before taking photos, cover up away from the beach, and visit communities with a Guna guide.

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  • 5 places

    Getting there, checkpoints and fees

    You arrive by the mountain road to Cartí and continue by boat. Bring your original passport and cash. Schedules are set by the General Congress.

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The place, in context

Everything you can do

Closed or restricted places are included and flagged, so you know what to expect.

Showing 13 of 13 · 2 closed or restricted, flagged

Nature and jungle · 2

Sea, beach and reef · 4

Lakes, rivers and waterfalls · 4

Living culture · 3

Gunayala (San Blas Islands) · Practical guide

The essentials

  1. Snorkelling the Isla Perro Chico wreck at 0–5 m depth.
  2. A night in a Guna cabin on Isla Diablo, Isla Perro or Chichime.
  3. A day by boat around the Cayos Limones.
  4. The lagoon and reef of the Cayos Holandeses (Gaimau), in calm seas.
  5. Gardi Sugdub and its community museum, with a Guna guide.
  6. Buying molas directly from the women who sew them.

Gunayala (San Blas Islands) · Practical guide

Suggested itinerary

  1. Day 1Pickup in Panama City between 5:00 and 6:00 a.m. El Llano–Gardi road, Nusagandi checkpoint (opens 7:00 a.m.) and cash payment. Boat from Cartí to Isla Diablo or Isla Perro Chico (about 30–35 min). Afternoon snorkelling the Isla Perro wreck, without swimming the channel between islands.
  2. Day 2Boat trip around the Cayos Limones and Chichime. Ask beforehand what each island charges to land. If the sea is calm and your cabin arranges it, a long day to the Cayos Holandeses. Night on the same island.
  3. Day 3Early boat back to Cartí. If arranged with a Guna guide, a short stop at Gardi Sugdub and its community museum. Drive back: the checkpoint closes for exits at 4:00 p.m.

Gunayala (San Blas Islands) · Practical guide

Where to stay

Islands near Cartí (Isla Perro Chico, Isla Diablo, Chichime)
Wooden cabins run by Guna families, with shared dorms or private rooms and meals included. One operator lists power only from 5:30 to 10:00 p.m. They are 30–40 minutes by boat and get day-trippers.
Outer cays (Cayos Holandeses)
Uninhabited cays far from the port. Reached on multi-night packages from nearby islands or by sailboat. More exposed to wind.
Sailboats and catamarans
You sleep on board and anchor in designated areas. Yachts pay anchoring fees to the Congress and to communities. Check that the boat holds a Guna operating permit.

Gunayala (San Blas Islands) · Practical guide

Practical tips

  1. Bring your original passport with the Panama entry stamp; copies are not accepted. Residents bring their national ID or residency card.
  2. Bring all the cash you need in small US dollar bills: entry fee, port, each island's charge, tips and molas. There are no ATMs.
  3. Drones, jet skis and kites are not allowed (General Congress). Nor are scuba tanks or spearfishing.
  4. Ask before photographing anyone; the private guide PlanPTY (updated September 2026) says some women ask US$1 per photo. The congress house, cemeteries and ceremonies may not be photographed or filmed without express permission from local authorities.
  5. Do not walk around communities in swimwear. Nudity is banned, and in January 2026 the Congress warned of fines and expulsion for partner-swapping parties or exhibitionism.
  6. Do not bring pets: animals, especially dogs, are not allowed on the islands.
  7. On 23 September 2026 the Congress temporarily closed the Uggubsibudub natural pool until further notice. If a tour includes a "natural pool", ask which one and whether it is authorized.
  8. Book with operators, drivers and cabins accredited by the Guna General Congress.

Safety and precautions

  • Wear a life jacket on the boat. The Guna Maritime Transport Regulation (approved in 2019; page updated Dec 2022) requires passengers to wear one (art. 128) and boats to carry life jackets for their capacity (art. 61), and bans drinking alcohol during the trip (art. 129).
  • There can be strong currents even in shallow water, and Canada warns that beaches in Panama are not usually supervised by lifeguards. Do not count on supervision, check local conditions and do not swim across channels. In June 2026 the Congress reported, with preliminary information, a tourist drowning in a shallow area with a current.
  • In strong wind the Congress may suspend boat traffic, as it did in February 2026. Check IMHPA and Congress notices before setting out and accept changes of plan. In June 2026, according to preliminary Congress reports, a catamaran ran aground and sank in strong wind near the Cayos Holandeses.
  • The El Llano–Gardi road has many bends and climbs; the Congress reported crashes in 2026 and asks drivers to slow down. Only 4x4s certified by the ATTT and the Congress may use it: ask your driver whether their vehicle is, and do not rush.
  • UK (FCDO): there is a risk of violence near the Colombian border, east of the Punta Carreto (Gunayala)–Yaviza–Punta Piña line. Travel there only in an organized group, make sure local police and security authorities know about your visit, follow their advice and do not stray from your group. Canada flags the southeastern Gunayala coast as a drug-trafficking corridor, especially dangerous at night. Check whether your island or route lies east of that line.
  • Carry a basic first-aid kit and sun protection. Before booking, ask your lodge what phone coverage the island has and where the nearest health centre is.

Frequently asked questions

How much does it cost to enter Gunayala?

Private figures disagree. According to the operator Guna Yala Panama Travel, foreigners over 10 pay US$20 at the checkpoint, and everyone over 10 pays US$2 port use (article updated September 2025), but its Perro Chico package gives an entry fee of US$22 for foreigners and US$7 for nationals and residents (checked October 2026); other private guides give US$20 to US$23 for foreigners and US$5 to US$8 for nationals or residents, with or without the port depending on the guide (San Blas Dreams, July 2025; PlanPTY and Nomad Sailors, updated September 2026). All in cash. The current amount is not confirmed by the official source at the time of review. On top come the boat (B/.20–75 round trip per person under the official 2022 fares) and each island's charge.

What time does the entry checkpoint open?

Since 11 May 2026 it opens at 7:00 a.m. for entry and allows exit until 4:00 p.m. In the 2025–2026 high season entry was moved up to 6:00 a.m. Hours can change by General Congress notice.

Can I go independently?

You can, but you need a certified 4x4, must pass the checkpoint, hire an authorized boat and book lodging with a Guna family. Most people book a package with a Congress-accredited operator.

Are there flights?

In 2026 Air Panama offers Gunayala only as a charter destination. Scheduled flights: not confirmed by the official source at the time of review.

Can I fly a drone?

No. The General Congress does not allow drones, jet skis or kites.

Can I visit Gardi Sugdub?

About 100 residents remain, along with a community museum and the health centre. Visiting rules and fees after the relocation are not confirmed by the official source at the time of review. Go with a Guna guide and ask permission. Isberyala is a residential neighbourhood, not a tourist site.

Can I scuba dive?

No. Tanks are banned in Guna waters except for research authorized by the Congress. Snorkelling is the norm.

Is it legal to sail to Colombia via San Blas?

The trips exist, but a 2018 Guna General Congress page bars foreign yachts and sailboats from chartering and from any profit-making activity in Guna waters. On top of that, the Maritime Transport Regulation (approved in 2019; page updated Dec 2022) fines unpermitted tourist transport US$1,000 the first time and US$5,000 the second, with permanent expulsion the third time. The sources consulted do not say a permit exempts anyone from the 2018 ban. Before paying, ask for the Guna permit and the immigration exit process.

Gunayala (San Blas Islands) · Practical guide

Sources consulted

Information checked in . Prices, hours and rules change: confirm them with the official source before you travel.

  1. Boletín Gigga – Congreso General de Gunayala (comunicados 2026)2026
  2. Actividades no permitidas – Secretaría de Asuntos de Turismo, Congreso General Guna2018
  3. Información útil – Secretaría de Asuntos de Turismo, Congreso General Guna2018
  4. Reglamento de Turismo – Congreso General Guna2017
  5. Reglamento de Transporte Marítimo – Congreso General de Gunayala2022
  6. Tarifa de transporte marítimo turística – Congreso General de Gunayala2022
  7. Vehículos de servicio turístico – Secretaría de Transporte Terrestre2026
  8. Comunicado n.º 5: nueva tarifa de pasaje terrestre – Congreso General de Gunayala2022
  9. Gunayala en resumen – Congreso General de Gunayala2025
  10. Gunayala – Visit Panamá2026
  11. Comarca Guna Yala – Visit Panamá2026
  12. Destinations – Air Panama2026
  13. Panama travel advice – UK FCDO2025
  14. Panama travel advice: regional risks – UK FCDO2026
  15. Panama travel advice – Government of Canada2026
  16. Se mantiene el aviso de vigilancia por fuertes vientos en el Caribe (IMHPA) – Destino Panamá2025
  17. Panamá bajo advertencia por vientos y oleaje (IMHPA) – Infobae2026
  18. Un año después del éxodo, la quietud invade Gardí Sugdub – La Prensa2025
  19. Isber Yala: nuevo hogar para 300 familias guna – La Prensa2024
  20. ¿Necesito pasaporte para San Blas? – Guna Yala Panama Travel2025
  21. Preguntas frecuentes – Guna Yala Panama Travel2026
  22. Guía completa de San Blas (Guna Yala) – PlanPTY2026
  23. Panama to Colombia by boat (2026) – Food Travel Explore2026
  24. Boletín Digital Gigga – Congreso General de Gunayala (Ley 536)2026
  25. La Asamblea rechaza la objeción al cambio de nombre de la comarca – Telemetro2026
  26. Perro Chico Island – Guna Yala Panama Travel2026
  27. San Blas from Panama City: travel guide by 4x4 and boat – San Blas Dreams2025
  28. How much cash to bring to San Blas – Nomad Sailors (operador)2025

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